30.9.05

THE FOLLOWING

---wrote to be read on Wednesday, oops.
Reigning queen of Quito here to tell you all about the city I have taken over for the day. My city of Quito is a great place. I arrived here yesterday after a 29 hour trip through some phenomenal mountain views. I had my camera ready, but just couldn’t capture what it was I was seeing. I just had to take it in. I will remember it always, but those breath-taking sights are not meant to be captured, they are intended to be held as fabulous memories of a spectacular place. A picture couldn’t do justice to the deep cutting valleys that are sandwiched between the massive peaks, the tiny rivers running through it, the humble abodes roadside that always have someone outside- washing clothes, selling fruits/baskets/anything they can, relaxed on a chair or hammock, kids playing, single animals roped to a stake next to the home; people riding their cargo loaded horses and burros down the mountain right next to the semis and buses on the road. It was awesome. And the rest of my ride was pretty o.k. too, I had 2 seats to sprawl out on and sleep, even though I have been pulling my legs into shape and straightening out my back all day. Once in Ipiales, a Colombian border city, I took another bus about 10 minutes to the border- did my stamping magic of exiting and entering, got all my luggage searched- and then hopped another bus that would take me to the bus station in Tulcan, the border town in Ecuador. Tulcan I took yet another bus 5 more hours to Quito!!!! Yeah Quito!!!! Finally, 4 buses later and I’m here! I had an excellent dinner my first night here that I shared with a bum as long as I could, now knowing why they kick the bums out. He sat down right across from me as soon as I offered my soup, but then he started spitting stuff onto the floor. I’m not the cleanest eater either, but I would at least use my fingers to pull it out of my mouth before throwing it on the floor- but seeing his fingers I know why he didn’t use them in the process. I hurried to eat as much as I could before he finished his soup. I knew I wouldn’t finish my whole plate and didn’t think he would stick around to watch if I would- sure enough, immediately after he finished the owner quickly escorted him out. I told him to wait, but he wasn’t allowed to stay. It wasn’t Mondongo, but it was hot soup on a chilly Quito night.
I stayed in the Chicago Hostal, a perfect little place right in the heart of the city. Only after checking in I found out that an AIESECer had a place for me to stay a bit farther out in the city. I guess that’s the price I pay for not contacting the AIESECers in a timely fashion, what can I say? I’m a bit lazy sometimes.
This morning started out fantastic as I enjoyed a great breakfast on the terrace overlooking the city, with the basilica at eye level. I then went to the center of the world. Yes, I said the CENTER of the WORLD, where latitude is 0,0,0 and the equator meets the prime meridian. It was a pretty nice day, but it’s gets quite windy in the middle of this planet, that’s for sure. Upon arriving back to Quito, I was going to parade around the city and see everything I could in my remaining 7 hours here… but it rained on my parade- all day long. The basilica~what a great idea! …or not. The people there were not tourists, they were crazy, pushy locals with aggresive arms that got them through the sea of other combating Ecuadotorianos. I didn’t see what the hurry was- and I could see over everyone’s head, once I got in all I could do was ask forgiveness for what I was thinking about these people. I was in and out in less than 3 minutes time, it’s all I could handle. On the other hand, I had a typical Ecuadotorian meal just outside the pushy event complete with a orange pop, hot dog, French fries, a super thin hamburger, a bit of cole slaw, and fried egg all which was covered with watery mayonnaise and ketchup. I don’t think this meal will go on my future menu, but it was a cultural eating experience where no other tourists would show their face all for $1.25. The locals got a kick out of me and made it a point to come over to my corner of the 10x10 ft restaurant to borrow my sauces or just to say hello- in English.
Which brings me to something that’s been bothering me as of lately. It didn’t used to bother me, but now… well, now it’s starting to really bug me.
Ex #1- a museum in Bogota- I was the only one in the gallery at the moment, the guard started speaking with me about art. I conversated with him for more than 10 minutes with no problem, when he asked if I was an art student. I told him I was just visiting from the States and all of a sudden he couldn’t understand anything I was saying anymore.
Ex #2-another museum in Bogota- I was about to purchase a ticket when I asked if there was a price for students, because, hey- I have a student card. Of course, the man replies and quotes me a price that’s ½ as much as the regular price. I was ecstatic that it worked and then foolishly asked if my international student card would work (no doubt it would) and then he asked where I was from. I told him and all of a sudden there was no student discount. It was “only for groups.” I went in anyway only to wipe my dirty feet on every chair that I could.
Ex #3-a bus from the center of the world back into Quito- I asked a man which bus to take to get to the center of the city. He not only told me how to get there, but accompanied me and told me what else I should see and the history behind it. Not bad, right? Well, I asked one simple question about a word I didn’t know and he repeated the entire schpeel in broken English. I answered him in Spanish and he continued in English.
Ex #4- on a street corner asking directions to the basilica---in the rain. Senora, please- where is the basilica? She only looked at me blankly and told me she didn’t understand. I asked again… the cathedral? basilica? church? She didn’t get it, then 5 strangers who overheard my question popped in to tell me exactly how to get there, and that I was close.
Ex #5- on another bus-a man approaches me; we talk for a while. He tells me I have good Spanish. I laugh. You mean my present tense only Spanish? Thanks buddy. You’re very kind. He gives me his number. I’ll add it to the rest of the little pieces of paper I hold so close to my heart.
Ex #6- walking down the street in Quito- a 80 year old guy gives me eyes, the next one 20 steps along says “hello” (in English), 5 minutes later I get a “hi” from another guy not my age.
All of this is well and good, but sometimes gets frustrating. I think its cause I’m losing my color and I just don’t blend in here in Ecuador- not at all. People here are shorter than I have encountered and have a definite look to them. Some sort of mountain/indigenous/Indian look. I even had a dream last night about my youngest niece, Clare, having an Ecuatorian nose… which may be true for all I know. Babies grow fast.
Anyway…if you can understand me for the first 5 minutes why turn off your understanding button when I tell you where I’m from? And why do answers/prices change when I tell you where I’m from? If I ask you a question in Spanish- why do you reply to me in English? I’m trying to learn here people- inquiring about one word doesn’t mean I don’t understand everything. Throwing out lines in English is not going to impress me- I don’t want to hear it. Sure, I’ll help you practice your English if set up an appointment- but for now I’m traveling in South America- for goodness sake, HELP ME learn your language.
Guillermina- I know, I know- doesn’t sound like me, right? Well, I’m a new woman, I really AM trying to learn… and whisper only when speaking English J
Now, in a few hours- not long enough for my soaking wet shoes to dry- I will head to the bus station for a night ride to Manta. Ahhhh… Manta, how I dream of your warm, sunny beaches and hot sand under my toes. I shall swim in your waters all day tomorrow, hoping to darken my skin at least 3 shades.

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