21.10.05

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WARNING: some of the following events are not true… no questions please

I’m not much for all out partying anymore, but last Friday I felt it was time to let loose. After traveling for a few months and not “knowing” anyone- Piero’s birthday was the perfect chance to take advantage of all you can drink drinks until 2am and celebrate good times. I met with Cameron, a much too much chemically charged gringo, and shortly after 2am found myself in a cop car on the way to the police station. Seems like a well lit park outside the club wasn’t the best place for us to open secret pockets and unroll magazine articles- for the police immediately grabbed and threw us into the car, cruising off to the police station before we could bribe them. Along with the cocaine, crack, marijuana, speed, and heroine they pulled from my purse, they managed to take most of my money and my camera while I was in the bathroom getting rid of the worms from the ice I had collected at the bar. Cameron, however, made away with his hidden stash of over the counter pharmacy pills. I successfully brought down Piero’s party at the bar with a call from the police to his cell phone. He of course was clueless as to what had happened and rushed over thinking that I had been kidnapped and raped. After paying my bail to get me out from behind bars he and his girlfriend kindly took me back to his parents home with 3 obnoxious barking dogs that alerted the entire family that we had arrived at 6am. Later that morning I made a great 2nd impression with his parents running down the stairs, through the living room, bedrooms, and kitchen time and time again with a full mouth and hands of whatever decided to ruin my stomach the night before. Shamefully, I got my things together and moved into a hostal as soon as I could stomach moving that far. Cameron and I met on Sunday to roam the city for his car. Positive he had parked it only blocks away from the bar, now all he had were his keys- the car had mysteriously disappeared. I took my stolen camera opportunity to upgrade at a nearby market, while Cameron… -well its not nearly as easy to upgrade that sort of car.
So, after dropping far too much money in Lima and being incredibly sick 94% of the time I was there decorating monuments, sidewalks, and taxis, I can honestly say that I liked it. It is a great city, with far too many women (7-1 ratio) and much too cold during this part of the year, but it had good flavor, spirit and well, I can’t explain it, but Lima was good. J
Monday I headed to Ica, where I just so happened to stumble upon a festival held the 3rd Monday of October each year- Senor de Luren. I, with a couple of Israelis, a Swede, an Aussie and a whole lot of Peruanos, was able to enjoy a lengthy procession of thousands of people stampeding through the streets of Ica, starting at 7pm and ending at noon the following day. I stayed in nearby Huacachina where the claim to fame is sandboarding. Huacachina, a town of 27 people, attracts many tourists year round for its fabulous bright, sunny skies and surrounding mountainous sand dunes. Although I’ve never snowboarded before I found sandboarding quite fun and I’m proud to say that I got the hang of it rather quickly. I’m happy to report that my color returned with a couple sun-filled days at the pool and I even landed myself a massage by one of the workers. It was only relaxing for about the first 2 minutes though, he said it was a special Peruvian massage but I abruptly ended his “specialty” when the masseuse unzipped and pulled down his pants.
I felt much better after meeting another traveler…just 3 weeks ago she had all of her things stolen from a hostal in Africa, and after replacing her passport, camera, clothes, bank card… everything- last week, on a tour boat in the Galapagos Islands, her boat sank. She only has the clothes which she jumped off the boat and swam to safety in. Now this girl’s back at square 1. That story sure beats sickness, crappy bus rides and a stolen camera. Glad to be wearing my shoes at the moment.
Now, I’m in Cusco after a 15 hour ride on an “Imperial Service” bus- which did nothing for comfort because the roads are so incredibly steep and windy that the whole time my body was shifting between me and the guy next to me. I did get to travel with a couple Israelis though and the entire bus even played speed bingo, which will do wonders for learning Spanish numbers. I cooked for myself for the first time in months here in Cusco- that made me super happy, walked the city just a bit, for my head is starting to fill up with congestion. I was told that Cusco is brilliant for nightlife, but it rained last night and was terribly cold. I am saving myself for my journey to Machu Picchu tomorrow. I leave in a couple hours to head in that direction.
If I make it out of Peru without getting all my things stolen I shall move on to Bolivia. Not exactly part of my master plan, but with all the fantastic things I’ve heard about that country since I’ve been in South America, I don’t want to regret not going- and I think I would if I didn’t. I still plan to be in Argentina the first week in November..haha… wish me luck!

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The trek began at 5.20 in the morning, we were all collected at our respective hostels by the “Peru Treks and Adventures” bus (shameless plug – they were amazing!), and we all tried to scrounge another couple of hours sleep out of the bus ride to km 82, which was the beginning of our trek.

Those that hadn´t met each other got aquainted and those that were too soft to carry all their stuff and bought extra porters (not pointing out anyone in particular here Siobhan, Kate, Maeve, Bairbre, Aiala, Marisol and Ruth) handed it to the superhuman machines that were our porters.

This is as good a time as any to tell you about the porters…the porters were superhuman. They are little men, about five foot five inches, and maybe 60kg with a full belly. The porters are resistricted to carrying 25kg nowadays, but back in the “good ol’ days”, these guys carried up to 60kg all day, for practically nothing, barefoot too.

It is a humbling experience on the trail as you struggle uphill with your expensive pack, with supernifty support system distributing 10kg or so around your shoulders, hips and back evenly and ergonomically in your flash hiking boots and your integrated hydration system while a little porter with a huge propane cylinder that must weigh well over 20kg that is wrapped in a shawl tied around his neck and supported by his arms skips past you wearing only sandals and has an old 600ml coke bottle full of dirty water for hydration.

Unfortunately, one of the girls got sick, and couldn´t start the trek and went back to Cuzco with her partner…which was bad, but it meant more food for us though…No, thats a horrible thing to say...haha

Day 1 was a relatively easy (I say that now after what happened on the rest of the trek – at the time it was tough going) five hours or so of trekking with a break for lunch for about an hour through undulating terrain and we arrived at our first campsite. All the tents were set up, food was being cooked, there were beers (thank god!), it was like a hotel, not camping…

We all got stuck into some dinner and more beers, and then got stuck into some scotch that one of the resourceful canadians brought along (thanks Mike) to help us sleep, not that we needed help after carting around 10-15kg on our backs all day…

Day 2 has a reputation of being the toughest day. Day 1 is easy, and considered practice. We camped at about 3200m on the first night and had to rise at 6 for breakfast. We passed the last segment of civilisation (read: no more beers at nighttime) early in the day and proceeded to the first pass, named Dead Woman´s Pass, at 4215m. We were to tackle the climb in two sections, lunch was at 3700m, then a further 500m to the pass followed by a 600m descent (all stairs!) to our camp. It was torture…there are a couple of photos in the album…When we finally made it to the camp, it was such a relief, the porters again, beat us in by ages and had all the tents set up and food cooking again…they were fantastic.

We were woken up the next day for the longest day of trekking, but it was broken up into stops at a few ruins and passes, we went through two passes on the third day, one about 4000m and the other at about 3600m, this was followed by a descent of about 1000m to our camp, which again was pretty much all stairs...What is it with Inca´s and stairs? They love them! Here we were promised cold beers at the bar...well, the beers were going down such a treat, 8pm and one beer turned into being thrown out of the bar at about midnight (I think) after playing drinking games, with a 4am wake up the next day to get to the Sun Gate at Machu Picchu before sunrise.

Needless to say it was tough to get up in the morning, but we all made it to the Sun Gate in time to catch the most amazing sunrise ever...although, you have to climb an almost vertical flight of steps on your hands and nice...you have to earn this sunrise baby!

The sun climbs over the mountain and through a notch in some ruins that had been aligned to Machu Picchu...it was something I will never forget seeing the golden sun creeping along, illuminating the ruins bit by bit...we pretty much all stood in silence and watched it, only broken by “That´s Amazing” and “Wow” and other superlatives.

It´s even more impressive when you get close and begin exploring, we all got lined up for the classic Machu Picchu group photo and dodged some llamas and began our tour. Our guide, Marcelino the Magnificent, gave a cool tour, explaining all the significant sites.

The benefit of trekking there, is that the first train from Cuzco only gets there at 11am, so there are no loud American tourists with Hawaiian shirts at this stage, they arrive at about 11.30-12pm (sorry my American friends – why do some of you turn that way when you travel? You are so nice in your own country!), which conviniently gives us about 4 hours to explore with only a few people who did the trek, and others who stayed the night in the town of Aguas Calientes. Even more conveniently, you can cover the whole city in about 4 hours, which gives you plenty of time to chill out in the town below prior to the train´s departure at about 4.30pm.

It was a surreal experience being there, kind of anti-climatic after the experience of the trek, yet incredibly stunning at the same time.

Made it back to Cuzco after the worst bus ride ever, freezing cold when all I wanted to do was sleep...got back to my hostel to find I had been put on the third floor thinking this was some kind of sick joke...The last thing I needed was more stairs....The joke got much better though...

After trekking for 4 days with about 40km in first three days, the first thing you would want would be a hot shower right? Yup, me too. I tried the shower – cold. I called my amigo at the hostel, thankfully, after half an hour he got it running warmish...that´ll do I said, I was almost beyond caring. I nude up and just as I am about to jump in, it stops...everything. No water whatsoever. Call my amigo again, he can´t get it working without it being freezing cold. No other rooms available...Uh-oh.

You really find out about your personal limits when you are standing naked in freezing cold shower where you´d swear the water came straight from a glacier after trekking 45km though the Andes, being awake nearly 20 hours that day, and not a lot of sleep the last 4 nights (well really a week if you include the drinking in Cuzco) and being filthy dirty, physically and mentally exhasted, and starving. I will be honest and say I was almost in tears...haha.
The next night the group all met up again and had a big blowout to celebrate doing the trek before we all headed our seperate ways...sportbook

I want to thank you all for the company on the trek and in Peru guys, it was an absolute pleasure and one of the best experiences of my life.www.gotocasino.com

Next stop - Buenos Aires in Argentina.

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