return to good air

too much dulce de leche, trick candles... i didn`t know they had trick candles. Buenos Aires has a nice drainage system and plazas are abundant. When will they go smoke free? My first thought: how can a shitty litttle country like Paraguay make me pay $45 USD to enter (the only country in South America thus far) however, 4 solid weeks in the same company, made a new city and country-exciting. Only one more day of January. My walls haven`t seen January`s picture long enough. It`s nice to cook in my kitchen- thinking about ssspecialties. Sometimes questions are cool, lila and lila. AH! every 4 minutes "these people" light up, I gotta get outta here. Always enjoy the end.

LAST NIGHT THE DJ SAVED MY LIFE

They are wet either way, if its not raining, there is profuse perspiration. However, there is security. Entire neighborhoods caged in with yapping pets to keep you away, none truly scary. I scored insider information about the matè mystery- now I`m a lover because here the greeting is 2 kisses. Guys too, it`s never a big deal unless others in the community consider them a transvestite. From a young age you are conditioned into staying up late, making afternoon lounging and siestas pretty much mandatory. When theres no AC, the outside shade will do just fine, just position the TV near the window facing the tree. Poles aren`t needed for fishing. My fill of driving after only 3 intersections light and signless. 2 motos can fit 8 people comfortably, bicycles 4-6. Dogs and pedestrians have about the same amount of purpose walking the streets; aimless wandering, basking in the shade, taking time to smell the other sex for compatibility, looking for stuff/food. Eating ants is not a big deal or even uncommon- live, microwaved or frozen. Although the maids are paid to clean, their main objective is to hide the visitors belongings, not cope with the ant problem. Paraguay is screaming my name.

leader of the pack

Less hassle for those who live in place with drainage systems. Not that life holds much hassle for us in South America, surely it doesn`t. 1 out of 2 people is a biker, and by biker I mean bicyclist or motorist, and by motorist I mean riding a scooter. Sitting outside between 4 and 5 a.m. I managed to count 20+ bikers. (for comparison purposes there were maybe 4 cars at this time) They try to avoid the rivers in the streets and the giant waves that other speedy passerbys produce, usually with no avail. All I have to concerrn myself with is a leap big enough to get myself from the street to the sidewalk and back... and of course helping decide which parking space is situated in a smaller pond. The moto riders are always good for a laugh. There is ALWAYS a girl. Sometimes on the back, sometimes both legs to one side in the front- sometimes 2 girls. I`ll have to get a picture... the girls wearing the "going clubbin` short dress", the girl going to work with her apron, the girls dressed to the hilt cruisin` the main streets- the moto is now a style accessory. I can only hope to get a shot of when they get splashed... it has been raining nearly every day

mOOnlighting

Checking nomadlife today I realized that Friday the 13th had passed me by without my knowledge. I enjoyed the full, FULL moon out my window of a bus heading to Formosa in the very north of Argentina. With glasses, without glasses, with, without... it was beautiful both ways. I got the full-on clear scope of the dark clouds lit from behind with the HUGE moon, and then a foggy, kind of cartoonish feel without. Although I thought it was weird that I was looking at the same scenery when I opened my eyes, however I went on sleeping and incorporated it all into my dreams. Hours later I discovered we were in fact stopped roadside for 6-7 hours during the night. Negro was out with numerous others trying to cure the blown tire. This was my 3rd flat tire in less than a week. Oh well, 14, 18, 23 hours on a bus... once you hit a certain point, its pretty much all the same.
I think we are like 15 minutes from Paraguay now- something like that. Looks like I will be hitting all the Spanish speaking countries in South America :)

wednesday

I couldn`t keep up with the countless butterflies furiously flying overhead. They were bright white against the blue sky. I turned my head to look out over the city, at the mountainous backdrop, the gleaming tops of fancy churches, weeping willows dancing in slow motion with the breeze, and the streams of sunlight poking holes through the clouds ready to burst with rain.
OOOOooohhhh.... HOT! too hot, I thought my back was actually starting to cook. I couldn`t handle it anymore. As much as I wanted to lay there on that blistering hot stone listening to rocks being thrown just close enough to me that I knew he was still there, I just couldn`t do it. So it was that we walked. Walked into that city below. A small common park called our names, then another, and another.

Salta, a place of wonder...

I wonder why people eat before everyone has food on their plate. (a HUGE pet peeve of mine)
I wonder why while one person is leading a prayer at the table, another is beside talking on a cell phone.
I wonder why women aged 70 and 80 have darker hair than their daughter´s graying locks.
I wonder why the streets are filled with people wearing sweaters and long pants in 100 degree temps.
I wonder why the local beer has an overabundance of head.
I wonder why in a pharmacy I have to ask the clerk to get my cool mint flavored listerine.
I wonder why listerine and other common items aren`t sold in a supermarket.
I wonder why little children are in the streets until 1 or 2 in the morning.
I wonder why breakfast is frowned upon and waking up at 2pm and eating an enormous lunch is standard.
I wonder why ice cream shops are on every corner.
I wonder why I can buy 2 big loaves of the freshest bread in the world for 20 cents, but contact solution is $20.
I wonder why almost everything is closed between 1230-5.... no, I don`t. It`s because of the humongous meal and wine during the lunch hour, then they nap.
Que buena vida!

5 to 6... I always liked 6

2005- I worked my butt off for the first 4 months in Lakeville, Minnesota. Experienced 7 new countries in South America. Found quasi boyfriends in 6 of the 7. Worked in Venezuela for 4 months, in Chile for a week. Got left behind on a bus twice in the middle of the night (Ecuador & Bolivia). Bought false money going into Peru. Robbed thrice. (once only for 20 cents, but it hurt, as it was my local veggie stand mean man plotting against me and my kind). Climbed mountains, swam in warm & cold water seas. Visited 6 capital cities. Traveled by 10 different forms of transportation. Tried many local varieties of beer. Joined a gym. Attended the gym I joined consistently. Had 12 roomates. Slept with hundreds of people-hostal dormitories. Celebrated Christmas for the first time familyless. Fell for a guy.
I am terribly happy about what last year gave me, the experiences I had, all that I learned, the friends I made, the places I visited.. and I am super excited to see what 2006 has in store for me!!!!
2006- my predictions...
I will return to the states and see all of my immediate family in one location at one time.
My student loans will miraculously disappear.
Someone in my family will have a baby at the end of August/early September.
I will turn 27.
That being said, my resolutions??? umm.... keep going to the gym, cook more exotic foods, speak better spanish, enjoy every minute of my life wherever I am.

One last wish that I will pass on- this came to me from my dear friend Julia in Ukraine, and I think that it sums up seasons greetings perfectly so I want to wish you all the same...

HAPPY NEW 2006 YEAR AND MERRY CHRISTMAS FOR A WHOLE YEAR WITH KEEPING UP TAIL AND NOSE, ARE HUNTING MONEY FAST AND SPENDING THEM FOR A GOOD EATING, DRINKING, DRESSING, TRAVELLING AND JUST MIRACLE RELAXING WHEREVER YOU WANT.